With a market loaded with harness options, it can be difficult to figure out where to start. I want to share three of my favorite harnesses and give a short background on why I have come to love them. Harnesses typically have a specific terrain use in mind when they are manufactured, so my top three also represent some different elements of climbing-specific terrain.
The All-Rounder
I’m big on climbing kits that can serve me in a variety of situations, from traditional to sport or even multi-pitch climbing. So, first on the list is the Petzl Aquila. The new model of the Aquila is awesome, it has the lightweight, super comfy feel of a sport harness but with ample racking room and 5 gear loops. If I could only have one harness this would be my choice. I’ve climbed many multi-pitch routes as well as single-pitch sport and trad in this harness and have very little to complain about.
Traditional Climbing
In my mind, there is only one king of the trad harness: the Misty Mountain Cadillac! This beast of a harness is durable, has a ton of racking space with 6 gear loops, and disperses the weight of a double rack like no other harness I’ve tried. On trad missions or long multi-pitch routes where I need to carry a full kit, I’m going to opt for my Cady. I’ve owned 3 Cadillacs in my 13 years of climbing, and unlike most other harnesses I purchase, I know it’ll last me multiple years versus a few seasons like most other harness on the market.
Sport Climbing
When I’m sport climbing I love a harness with a lightweight feel and I don’t need a ton of racking space. The Petzl Hirundos is lightweight, without giving feeling like I’m going to wear it out in one long season of climbing. Some of these ultralight harnesses like the Petzl Sitta just aren’t for me. I don’t climb big mountains where every gram matters and I like that nice mix of durability with lightweight where I’m confident I can put many miles on it.
A few notes and honorable mentions
— The first note is that I climb sport in my Petzl Aquila. It’s so similar in feel to the Hirundos that I no longer feel the need to own both. It’s a wonderful all-rounder!
— The second note is, if you don’t feel like you want something as lightweight as the Hirundos for sport and even some single-pitch trad, I’ve had great experiences with the Misty Mountain Bolt and the Petzl Sama. In my opinion, these two harnesses are underrated. They are light enough and about as durable as they come in a single-pitch-oriented harness. I would highly recommend them both!
— Last but not least I love shouting out Misty Mountain because they are manufactured locally in the North Carolina high country in the little town of Banner Elk. Climbing gear is becoming more and more large-scale, and any chance I get to purchase a tool like the Cadillac from a local company, I take. If you are looking to purchase any of these harness locally in Asheville, check out Black Dome Mountain Sports on Tunnel Road near downtown.